If you have inherited jewellery and are trying to work out what it is worth, the best place to start is with the hallmarks.
These tiny stamps can tell you the purity of the metal and sometimes even where and when the piece was made. They are also an important part of preparing an accurate probate valuation.
Many people assume hallmarking is complicated, but it is actually very simple. You do not need any special equipment and most rings, chains, and bangles only contain a few straightforward marks.
If you later decide you need a formal probate valuation, Swift Values provides fast online assessments from £25. Having the hallmark details to hand helps us give you the most precise report.
Step 1. Find the hallmark
The first step is simply locating the hallmark. These marks are small, but they are usually placed in predictable positions and take only a moment to check.
Rings
Look on the inside of the shank. This is the standard location for gold, silver and platinum marks and is almost always where the fineness stamp will appear.
Chains and necklaces
Examine the clasp area carefully. Most hallmarks are found either on the clasp itself or on the small tag or jump ring next to it. Heavier chains and watch chains may also carry additional stamped links.
Bracelets
As with chains, the hallmark is typically on or beside the clasp. A quick check of the fastening usually reveals it.
Earrings
Check the post or the butterfly back. Some earrings, particularly smaller designs, may carry only a single purity number.
Bangles, pendants and brooches
Turn the piece over and look along the inner edge or near the fastening mechanism. Hallmarks on these items can sometimes sit in more discreet positions.
You only need to look for hallmarks on items that feel substantial or of obvious precious-metal construction. Very fine, hollow or decorative items may not carry a hallmark at all, and this is not unusual.
Step 2: Record the key details
Once you have located the hallmark, the next step is simply to record what you see. This does not need to be technical. A clear note or photograph is usually sufficient for a valuer to work from.
Make a record of the fineness number
This is the most important detail. You are looking for a number such as 375, 585, 750, 916, 925 or 950. If the piece shows a carat stamp instead (for example “9ct” or “18ct”), write that down instead.
Take a clear photograph
A close, well-lit photograph of the hallmark is often more reliable than copying the numbers by hand. Most phones can capture these marks clearly if you use the zoom function and stabilise the item on a flat surface.
Note any additional marks if visible
If there are other symbols, such as an assay office mark or initials, include these in your notes. They may or may not be relevant, but they can help build a fuller picture of the item.
If possible, weigh the item
A simple weight in grams can be useful, particularly for heavier gold chains, bangles or rings. Many households have kitchen scales accurate enough for this purpose. If you cannot weigh the piece, do not worry; the hallmark alone is still valuable information.
The aim at this stage is only to gather the basic details. You do not need to interpret them. That comes later.
Common Gold Fineness Marks
Most people only need to understand the basic fineness numbers stamped on gold jewellery. These numbers indicate how much pure gold the item contains and are the simplest way to identify whether a piece is 9ct, 14ct, 18ct or higher. They are used consistently across modern UK jewellery and appear either as a three-digit number or as a carat mark. The list below covers the marks you are most likely to encounter on inherited rings, chains and bangles.
What Jewellery Hallmarks Mean: The Four-Part System
Once you have identified the fineness number, you may notice other marks stamped alongside it. Modern UK jewellery often carries up to four components in a full hallmark. You do not need all of this information for probate, but it can help you understand more about the age and origin of a piece.
1. The Fineness Mark
This is the most important part of any hallmark. It appears as a three-digit number such as 375, 585, 750, 916 or 950, and indicates the purity of the metal in parts per thousand. Some items may show a carat mark instead, such as 9ct or 18ct. This is the key detail required for probate valuations.
2. The Assay Office Mark
This symbol identifies which UK assay office tested and verified the metal. Each office uses its own traditional emblem:
- London: Leopard’s head
- Birmingham: Anchor
- Sheffield: Yorkshire rose
- Edinburgh: Castle
These marks confirm that the piece has been independently tested.
3. The Sponsor’s Mark
The sponsor’s mark (sometimes called the maker’s mark) is usually a set of initials within a shaped surround. It identifies the individual or company that submitted the item for hallmarking. While this is not essential for valuation, it can occasionally help date or attribute a piece, particularly older jewellery.
4. The Date Letter
Some jewellery includes a letter that corresponds to the year the item was hallmarked. Each assay office uses its own lettering cycle, and the style of the letter and the shape of its surround determine the specific year. Date letters became optional in 1999 and are not used on all modern pieces. They can, however, be helpful when assessing antique and vintage items.
Probate Value vs Retail or Insurance Value: Why It Matters
Understanding hallmarks is only one part of determining what inherited jewellery is worth. A common misunderstanding is the belief that probate value is the same as retail value or an insurance figure. In reality, these three valuations serve very different purposes.
Probate value is based on the open-market price of an item on the date of death. It reflects what the piece would reasonably sell for in the current second-hand market, not what it originally cost, and not what it would cost to replace. This distinction is important because retail and insurance values are typically much higher.
The Swift Values national survey showed just how easy it is to overestimate. When participants were shown a diamond ring that had been purchased for £6,250 but had a probate value of around £1,250, more than 90% overestimated its worth. The same pattern was seen with furniture, antiques and everyday items.
Hallmarks play a useful role in establishing the metal content, but they do not reveal everything. A hallmark will not tell you the quality of a diamond, the clarity of a gemstone, or the condition of a setting. These factors can significantly influence the open-market value, which is why a formal appraisal may still be required for probate, even when the hallmarks are clear.
A hallmark provides the foundation. A valuer provides the context.
Deeper Hallmark Guide
For those who wish to look beyond the basic fineness number, the UK hallmarking system contains several additional features that can provide useful historical and contextual information. These marks are not essential for probate, but they can help date a piece, identify its origin, or confirm authenticity.
A. Assay Office Symbols
Assay office marks show where a piece of jewellery was independently tested and verified. Modern UK hallmarks use one of four symbols:
- Birmingham: Anchor
- London: Leopard’s head
- Sheffield: Tudor rose
- Edinburgh: Castle
These symbols confirm that the metal has met statutory standards. Older or antique items may show marks from closed assay offices such as Chester, Glasgow or York.
B. Date Letters
A date letter is a stamped letter that corresponds to the year the item was hallmarked. Each assay office uses its own alphabetical cycle, and the shape of the surrounding shield determines the specific series.
Date letters became optional after 1999 and are not commonly used on items produced after 2020. When present, they can help establish whether a piece is Victorian, Edwardian, mid-century or modern, which may influence value for buyers of antique jewellery.
C. Sponsor’s Marks
The sponsor’s mark (sometimes known as the maker’s mark) identifies the person or company that submitted the item for hallmarking. It normally consists of one to three letters within a shaped cartouche.
While interesting, these marks are seldom essential for families handling inherited items. They can, however, help specialists attribute older or unusual pieces to particular workshops or manufacturers, especially in the case of early 20th-century and Georgian jewellery.
D. Foreign Hallmarks
Imported jewellery often carries different hallmarking conventions:
European gold
Commonly marked with fineness numbers such as 750, 585 or 375, but without a UK assay office symbol. Continental marks may appear within different shaped frames.
Indian and Middle Eastern gold
Frequently stamped with simple purity numbers such as 916 (22ct) or occasionally 999 (24ct) without additional marks. Some pieces may also display local script alongside the purity number.
Foreign hallmarks are perfectly legitimate but sometimes require additional testing to confirm purity, particularly if the piece shows signs of wear.
E. What If There Is No Hallmark?
A missing hallmark does not automatically indicate that a piece is not gold or silver. There are several common reasons:
Pre-1973 jewellery
Before the Hallmarking Act, many lightweight items were legally sold without full hallmarks.
Handmade or altered items
Rings that have been reshaped, repaired or resized may lose hallmarks during the process.
Weight exemptions
Very light items (under one gram of gold or seven grams of silver) are exempt from hallmarking requirements.
Foreign pieces without UK marks
Some imported jewellery was sold without UK assay office marks before stricter rules were introduced.
Any unmarked item should be professionally tested, as its value can vary significantly depending on the metal and construction.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What does 375 mean on a ring?
375 indicates 9 carat gold, meaning the metal is 37.5 percent pure gold. - Is 750 gold real?
Yes. 750 is 18 carat gold and contains 75 percent pure gold. It is a higher-quality alloy than 9ct or 14ct. - Are hallmarks required in the UK?
Most gold, silver and platinum items above the legal weight thresholds must be hallmarked by a UK assay office. Very lightweight items may be exempt. - Do diamonds have hallmarks?
No. Hallmarks apply to metal only. Diamonds and gemstones are assessed separately for quality and value. - What if my ring has no hallmark?
An unmarked ring may still be gold or platinum. Older or lightweight items were sometimes sold without hallmarks. Professional testing is required to confirm the metal. - Does hallmark purity affect probate value?
Yes. The fineness mark determines the metal content, which contributes to the open-market value. However, gemstones and condition can affect value more significantly. - Does jewellery need to be valued for probate?
Jewellery should be valued if it forms part of the estate, particularly if it contains gemstones, is made of high-carat gold, or the estate may exceed the inheritance tax threshold. - How do I photograph jewellery hallmarks?
Place the item on a flat surface, use the phone’s zoom function, switch on good lighting, and take a close, steady photograph of the mark. - Can you identify a ring’s maker from the hallmark?
Sometimes. The sponsor’s mark identifies the person or company that submitted the item for hallmarking, although it is not always necessary for probate. - What is the difference between carat (gold) and carat (diamond)?
For gold, carat refers to purity (such as 9ct, 18ct or 22ct). For diamonds, carat refers to weight, with one carat equal to 0.2 grams. - Do older hallmarks mean jewellery is more valuable?
Not necessarily. Age can increase desirability in some antique markets, but condition, metal purity and gemstone quality often have a greater impact. - Why are some hallmarks worn or incomplete?
Hallmarks can fade through wear, resizing or repairs. This is common in older rings. - Can foreign hallmarks be used for probate?
Yes. Foreign-marked items can be valued for probate, but metal testing may be required if the marks are unfamiliar or incomplete.
Need jewellery valued for probate?
Swift Values provides fast, HMRC-compliant online jewellery valuations from £25.
Upload photographs of your items, including the hallmarks, and our qualified gemologists will prepare an accurate probate report.
